Playfully erotic images of female pop stars and models have made Ellen von Unwerth’s photographic career a seriously sexy success. Born In Frankfurt, Germany in 1954, von Unwerth’s childhood was dotted with stints in foster care and was marred with unrest. Upon graduating from high school however, her vivid imagination saw her taking a job in the circus as an assistant. She regularly performed in the travelling show’s magic acts, it was her escape and she loved it. Soon enough though her great escape presented itself and her fashion career began to take shape when she was at university in Munich on her first day when she was spotted by a modelling scout. She modelled in Munich for some time before relocating to Paris where she signed with Elite and remained in front of the camera for 10 years, booking many prestigious jobs including the cover of Cosmopolitan.
It wasn’t until her boyfriend at the time gifted her a new camera on a shoot on location in Kenya that her inner passion and gift for being behind the lens came to light. She began taking her own photos and in no time she was shooting regular campaigns. In 1989 however she really found her footing, landing a monumental project, a Guess campaign in which she shot one of the era’s newly rising models, Claudia Schiffer. The two budding stars found major fame in the moment and von Unwerth became a hot commodity overnight. Just two years later she won first prize at the International Festival of Fashion Photography earning her her place in the industry as one of it’s top fashion photographers. Her photographic style was a refreshing take on the provocative, portraying women in playful settings while drawing a seductive story in every shot; something that would continue to dictate Guess’ notoriously suggestive campaigns for over 30 years since.
Opulently feminine and luxuriously sensual, von Unwerth’s work is instantly recognisable. She has said of her craft that “Technique undoubtedly helps make photography magical, but I prefer to work with atmosphere. I think that the obsession with technique is a male thing. I would rather search for a new model or location.” Her work has been published in major fashion publications such as Vogue, Vanity Fair, Interview, The Face, Arena, and i-D. and she has shot some of the most prolific and sometimes controversial campaigns in fashion history for brands like Dior, Ralph Lauren, Uniqlo, Thierry Mulger and John Galliano.
She understands the sexy and makes it somehow sexier, something perhaps only a female photographer can do so powerfully and without objectification. Her creative prowess has spawned many mediums including her directorial work on music videos and the creative direction of some of the past decades most famed album covers, including Duran Duran’s 1990 Liberty album, Pop Life by Bananarama in 1991, Saints and Sinners by All Saints in 2000, Blackout by Britney Spears, 2007 and Talk That Talk and Rated by Rihanna. She has also been director of commercial films for brands such as Revlon, Equinox and Clinique. No matter her way of delivering beautiful images however, you can be sure that Ellen von Unwerth will always maintain her sexy distinctive style, holding her place as one of her generations most celebrated image makers.
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